volcanoes in Java

Mount Bromo in Java Island. The road from Yogya to Bromo was a 11 hour drive without country side. All the way was full of towns and some small rice fields, so the bus was really slow and very bumpy. It was an entire day wasted. This was part of a tour I booked which included one night in a hotel close to Mt. Bromo, which is an active volcano located in a beautiful scenery on East Java. So, the next morning we had to wake up around 3 am, we hop into some jeeps, and drive all the way to a view point, from where we could see the sunrise over Mt. Bromo.

And there we were, around 200 people, waiting for the sun to make his appearance, and when it finally did we could see the volcanoes and their activities... Everyone was taking millions of pictures, and then we head down into one of the volcanoes. From there you can hire a horse and walk all the way towards the final steps to reach the crater. So I thought it would be a cool experience to ride the horse, so I did.. but the horses were like midgets.. really small. So up in the crater I took some cool pictures and let my soul take in all the beauty that was present around.

After this, the tour continued all the way to Bali. So after waiting for two hours for the bus, we head to the ferry crossing, then sail to Bali Island. Then the bus drop us at Denpasar, arriving around 11:30 pm. I met Raquel from Barcelona, so we neither of us had any booking at some hotel or guesthouse.. So we went to Kuta Beach, and start looking for a place near the Poppies (little alleys), but everyplace was full, and after an hour we found an OK hotel.

Ancient temples

Yogyakarta, Indonesia. After travelling in train for 16 hours from Jaisalmer to Delhi, then fly for 5 hours from Delhi to Trivandrum, then sleeping in this airport overnight just to take the 8:00 am flight to Kuala Lumpur, then go to the city and pick some stuff I left with Angel, my couchsurfer host, go back to the airport and take the flight to Jakarta, Indonesia, and then sleep again in the airport, to take the 6:00 am flight to Yogyakarta!!! I loved it!!! Hahaha..

So, I arrived to Indonesia and suddenly I felt really good about this country.. is nothing like India, it is clean and organized.. the streets, and transport system, everything is quite better than I expected.. So I went to the Solriwajai Street, where all the guest houses are, and I let myself be guided for some guy, that might have gotten a comission, as they always do, and took me to a very nice guest house, located in one of the gangs (Gang is like a narrow alley, just for pedestrians, perpendicular to the streets, and I loved it, they are so peculiar with cafes, book stores, etc).. For my surpise, It was hosted by a catholic family.. There was a big statue of the Virgen de Lourdes, so that ringed the bell...

This first day I went to walk around town, specially around Maliuboro Street (yes like Marlboro)... it is the most famous street, because it has a market in all the sideways.. Its quite intersting, seeing all kinds of food and clothing articles.. I walked south, where it ends in the Palace, which was closed but some other backpackers told me it wasnt that good... Then at night I went to have dinner at some well placed restaurant in my gang, and eat some indonesian food: some rice with shrimp, and vegetables.. really spicy though..

The next morning I woke up at 5 am, because I went with a tour in a minibus to the ancient buddhist temple of Borobudur.. The monument is both a shrine to the Lord Buddha and a place for Buddhist pilgrimage. This was one of my main reasons to come to this remote island (Java Island).. We got to see the sunrise, and the scenery was breathtaking! I walked around the temple, which is really nice, with a lot of details in the reliefs and stupas. (bell shaped structures, with buddhas statues inside)... And the whole layout of the temple, has a deep metaphorical meaning to the Buddishm teaching and stages in life.

Then we head to another temple: Prambanan, which is a ninth century Hindu temple compound dedicated to Trimurti, the expression of God as the Creator (Brahma), the Sustainer (Vishnu) and the Destroyer (Shiva). The temple, as well as Borobudur, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, currently is the largest Hindu temple in Indonesia, and is one of the largest Hindu temples in south-east Asia. It is characterised by its tall and pointed architecture. When I was there, it started to rain!! But serious rain! We had to cover inside the temples and waited for more than 20 minutes.. It was a very emotional experience...

The next day I head to Bromo, a beautiful volcano on Java...


to be continued...

Living art

Agra, India. Home of the Taj Mahal. I arrived on friday afternoon and stayed on night because the Taj is closed on fridays. My hotel had a nice rooftop restaurant with an excellent view of the Taj. (by the way, in India almost every 'good hotel or guesthouse' has a rooftop restaurant). The next day I first went to the Agra Fort. Quite big and interesting. It is red in its majority, except for a temple in marble. It has good views of the Taj and it was were the king that built it lived his last years, because he was imprisoned there by his own son.

Here i befriended two europeans and we had lunch afterwards. Then I went with Tim, from Holand to the Taj. He had a private driver so that was cool. It was afternoon so we catch some sunset and was pretty neat!

We arrived from the south gate, straight to a pre courtyard, and then we crossed another entrance where the famous central water court begins. This and the geometric gardens walk with you as you got closer to the mausoleom. The Taj stands as an imposing mass with very fine details in every square centimeter. Its materials are timeless and its execution flawless. Its dimesions are majestic and the interiors are dark and quite. All in all, its a really fine work of art worth visiting.


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The Bond

Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India This Golden City is located in the far east region of India, in middle of the desert. It has a historic and unique fort, and the whole town is surrounded by several sand dunes. So the major touristic attraction is doing camel safaris and staying overnight at the sand dunes.

Right now I am writing this on my ipod, with just me, the sand and the stars. I am alone in this windy spot, in the middle of nowhere, letting me be part of the universe. Early this day I saw a quote that says: "when you are with yourself, never know how far you can go". I think it suits perfectly right now, because I was brought here with lies, among so many I was told I was going to be with three more people. But no, I am alone and at first, when there was still light I was feeling very uneasy. But now that darkness came, the animal kingdom woke up, and the stars were turned on I feel that this is something very special that should be done alone. No noise, except for the wind in your ears. No humans in more than five kilometers. No thoughts that are superficial. Just you, nature and universe. More than just an encounter, a bond between the three.


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Spiritualism

Rishikesh, India. I took the overnight bus from Chandigarh to Rishikesh, so when I arrived at 2 am I let the rickshaw guy take me to a cheap guest house. (a rickshaw is the three wheel mini taxi). Rishikesh is a holy city and it is situated along the Gange River, at "the gate of the Himalayas". It is also known because The Beatles used to come here to visit their own guru and ashram.

I happen to be at the last day of the maha kumbh mela, which is a hindu religious festivity hey hold every three years in four diferrent towns each time. So the last time it took place here was 12 years ago. It was quite a seight. Thousands of pilgrims, thousands of gods, hundreds of temples and offerings everywhere. I met Emily, from USA, and she showed me around 'cause she had been for almost two weeks. We walked, bare feet, into the tallest temple. We had to walk our way up, passing through several minitemples for different gods and ringing bells along the way to 'let the gods know we are here'. Along the river you could see people going into the river to purify hemselves.

It ended this particular day because it was on a full moon night and we decided to go swim in the sacred cold river at midnight. Quite an extraordinary experience! There were also some hippies playing their drums around a fire in a place that looked like a volcano (because of the stone walls). Really fun to watch! The next day I went rafting in the rapids with some indians I met and also a good experience!! This day I got on another overnight bus, this time to Delhi. At the bus stand I met two girls from California, one of them was identical to my mother when she was young so it was kind of weird talkin to her haha... But they were cool and one of them had a rough time in the bus, being harassed by some guys. By the way, here in india every indian stares at a foreigner and they always take out their phone to photograph you, specially if you are a lady. So my respects to girls that travel alone here!


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Hot, Twins and Good Company

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. When I arrived in this extremely hot and humid city, I took the train to the Petronas Towers, where I was supposed to meet with Andrew, my host from CouchSurfing. But because of some delays I arrived later and she was gone already. So I called her and she gave me another location, the KL Permorfing Arts Center. So I manage to get there, with three metros and a taxi. She was waiting with her sister and another russian couchsurfer.

It was late so we went to have some dinner to a remote place from where we were. We came to a food court really unique! It was an outdoor foor court, with a lot of food cookers in the perimeter. So you choose your table which has a number, and there is a guy just in charge for serving drinks. So you then wonder around what food you want, sometime with more han one cooker and you give your table number and they cook it and take it later to your table. Each table has an electronic switch for if you want more drinks, and the guy cames. And well this kind of food courts are really normal in this country and I liked it!

We drove back to Andrews apartment and it was good! I slept OK and the next day I took a Tour Guide she had and walked down the street to take a bus to downtown. I arrived to big green explanade with a big flag pole, and its where they reunite each year celebrating their independence. Then I walked to the Central Market and China Town. And you know, all kinds of stuff they want to sell you and its a highly concentrated place of people, because they also have this ugly stands where they sell fresh fish and other kind of ugly food. I ended eating in McDonalds: free wifi! By the way eerything here is super cheap!

Then I found my way to Brickfields, is where all the hindu community is, and is not a very beautiful place. It was close to a catholic church so I stopped by to say hi. At this point I was droping wet from all the sweat, because of he weather that was drying me up. So I walked into KL Sentral and use the toilet to have an express shower! It was really refreshing!! Then I took a bus around a residential area and where some cool restaurants and bars are. I just stood in a bus, taking notice of everything I saw. Then I went to the Petronas again, this time I wonder around Luna Park to keep reading my book.

From here I walked to Pavillion, a cool place to hang around. Its a shooping mall wih restaurants, bars and a cinema. Sine I live going to the movies and I enter and watch Shutter Island. Cool movie with and great finale! On my way out I went to the Petronas to take some cool night shots! Then I grabbed a cab to Andrews place. The russian guy went away and now a british came in, Leon, cool dude.

The next morning Debra, andrew's sister, took Leon and me to the petronas to collect tickets very early, ticket to go up to the bridge. But since my flight was leaving at 7 I couldnt go up to the bridge because we only got tickets for 5 pm. So Debra took us to some caves where theres is a Hindu Temple. It was quite impressive because we had to walk up around 200 stairs and there is a big big statue of one of their Gods. The cave remind me of Grutas de Garcia, just taller and smaller.

Then we went back to china town, had a delicious chinese food and then I took the express train to the airport for my next adventure: Dubai!


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City for architects

Chandigarh, India. I took the heritage train from Shimla to Kalka, then a minivan to Chandigarh. By the way I had an passionate argument with the driver who wanted to overcharge me, but at the end I win... hehe.. That train I took is considered a heritage for the indian railways I guess because its old, and it crosses through mountains, tunnels and bridges. I received a good service, nice food and chai and I got to rest really good.

Chandigarh is the only city where famous french architect Le Corbusier exploid his ideas on urbanism and city planning. While sometimes critized, his model works. He made the planning on the 50s and is now when the sistem works, because of the use of abundant transportation. He divided the city in rectangular sectors, where he main roads form he rectangles and there are few entrances to each sector and they have inner roads for their inner circulations. Le Corbusier saw the city as a living organism, so he placed at one extreme all the government facilities (the head). Then he placed the shopping sectors, where the economy runs as it were the hearth, and he considered the parks as the lungs. The citizens are really proud of their city and they all know about the architect. Although the system works it may appear as very squared and extremely rationalist, but at the end that was his philosophy.

He also designed a couple of buildings, belonging to the government complex. I didn't know but to get in you need a letter from the tourist office. After I got it, I went back to the complex and the guards let me in with the letter and I had to walk to a reception. In here I have to show the letter again and they took me a picture. Then they printed my permit. With these I had to go to another access control and they wrote down my information. Then I got inside he building and had to go to he sixth floor so they take a xerox copy from my passport and visa. And that was it, always accompanied by a soldier. So first I went to the tallest buildin in he complex and went to the rooftop. Le Corbusier always said that the rooftop has to be a living space, somewhere to rest and have some nature on it. So this building had its plans and very good views from he city and the rest of the government complex.

Then I went to the Palace of Assembly, the most recognizable Le Corbusier building in India. The main entrance is not used, but it is pretty monumental. It has a water court and a tall entrance hall. It is a shame but all these buildings are in a really bad shape. They look abandoned and with no mantainance at all, specially because he construction system was based on apparent concrete, done with bad quality (far from Khan's Salk Institute). Still you could see the main intentions of the architect: le promenade architectural, pilotis, rythm, shadow control, rigurous shapes with some organic details (specially on the roofs).

All in all, Chandigarh is a must visit city for architects. We can live it, reason it, and have a critical opinion for the father of modern architecture.


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Mountains and friends

Dharamsala, India. In the himalayas mountains. We arrived around 8 am looking for a cheap hotel. We had a forgettable breakfast and rested for a couple of hours. Then we 'hired' a tourist car (is like a taxi) and for ten dollars they tour you to the highlight places of the little town.

We ended in Mcleodgaj, a very small village at the top of the mountains, home of the Dalai Lama and exiled tibetans. This is really a nice place, I loved it so I stayed one more day. Sid and Joyti had to fo back to Delhi. I bought some confortable clothes and had a delicious chai up in the mountaind looking back to the valley. I visited the Dalai Lama temple and then I found a cozy restaurant, where I had dinner looking at the snowy tops of the himalayas.

Mcleodgaj has also a christian church, from the Church of North India. Its a really old, small but beautiful church. Its architecture is well suited in time and place, its simple, dark stones and tall ceilling gives you a sense of worshipness and peace. There are a lot of shops, tourists, hindus, tibetans and guest houses. It is definitely a must see place in India.

I decided to take the overnight deluxe bus to Shimla. This time a more comfortable bus but still wih no A/C. But you really dont need it at night, specially in this region. It was an 8 hour ride and I was sitting next to Monu, a 21 year old hindu studying its bachelor degree in Shimla. Shimla was the summer capital for the british when they were occupying indian lands. It is also located in the mountains and it had good weather.

Monu invited me to his flat, actually just a room wih a small kitchen and bath. It was a flst he shared wih other three guys, and it was in a really cheap condition. His friends were cool and they were all studying for a final exam. I rested for about an hour then I went with them to their school where I met more students and the teachers. They were all really nice, even the guy from the cafeteria (canteen) who didnt charge me for the tea chai.

So they finish the exam and then Monu and two other guys took me to visit historic places in Shimla, such as the little british castle at the top of the mountain and is now a center for advanced studies. This castle was visited by Gandhi in one of his trips to this city. Then we walked to the main plaza and market, that is also in the top of the hills. From there I was on my own because I had to take a train to Chandigarh. Before that i pay a little visit to the only catholic church in there. Shimla was an OK city, but dont necesarilly to visit it twice.


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Ups and downs.

Delhi, India. Arriving from an overnight nonsleep flight, with no taxi driver that could get me to my couchsurfer host's house and a dirty, crazy-driving city with little english speakers gave me a particular first impression of India. So there I was, alone trying to figure out what to do. I ended up at a tourist office where they made me an itinerary to visit the places I wanted to go. At first I thought it was a good decision because I pictured myself having a rough time travelling by myself in this country. This way sounded relaxing and a confortable way of travelling. Thousand dollars for 12 days. Bit expensive. I paid. It included one day around Delhi with a personal driver.

So he took me to some places, but with all the horns in he streets, the crazy driving of my driver (and eveybody), and me thinking on the numbers of this tour. I was told I was going to be wih other tourists in the same car, but then the driver told me that I was probably going to be alone. So I went crazy because that isnt really my travel style. I contacted other couchsurfer, Sid, and he agreed to host me that. He is a really nice guy! He helped me a lot during my trip no just by hosting me.

I told him about my troubling mind and he really gave me peace of mind back. We run some numbers and if I did the trip on my own I was just going to expend not even 50% of the tour (at the end, now that I finish India, I spent only 25%). Thats right, India is really cheap. So we called and cancelled the trip, but the cancellation fee is 50% of the amount paid. We managed to get back almost 75%. I lost some money but at the end I gain also money and peace of mind. Plus I got to travelled at my own pace, even going to places I didnt knew about.

So, my first day in India ended unexpectedly good: swimming pool at night and dinner at a hindu restaurant with Sid and Joyti, his girlfriend. Amazing people and amazing food. We ate chicken marsala, with the traditional roti (hindu bread), and for drink sweet lassi! (best beverage ever, especially this one because in other places I later visited their lassies werent this good). It is basically liquid yoghurt, it can be sweet , sour or mixed with fruit (mango lassi, banana lassi, etc.). We ordered more stuff and deserts, but forgot their names. Everything was really tasty! Outside the restaurant we bought some pan, is like a sweet mint in a leaf.

Sid's family was very kind with me. Her mother cooked for me and prepared indian juices. They even washed my clohes and iron them! I felt really pampered. The next day we drove around Indian Gate and the presidents house and Sid proposed me going to Dharamsala because he was going that day with his girlfriend so I agreed. And we travelled in an overnight ordinary bus. Ordinary means the cheapest, fullest and uglyest bus. Quite an experience!! I have to admit I liked it, even though it was a 12 hour trip and barely had one sleeping hour.

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Desarrollo y multicultura

Mi vuelo a Singapur hizo escala en Kuala Lumpur. Al llegar a esta ciudad me invadio un calor impresionante! Y como esta muy cerca del Ecuador no hay estaciones, siempre esta asi! En Singapur me quede con una chica que conoci en Melbourne, con ella y su amiga hicimos el recorrido del Great Ocean Road. Y casualmente las dos habian ido a bucear en Malasia y de regreso a Singapur ibamos en el mismo vuelo saliendo de KL, asi que me las tope en el aeropuerto!

Llegando a Singapur me impresiono el aeropuerto y lo ordenados que son. Para cambiar de una terminal a otra hay como trenecitos bien modernos que parece que son como un cuarto extra en cada terminal que se mueve! jaja... Tomamos el metro pues para ir al departamento de Lu, en una torre de departamentos junto con otras parecidas que me explico heran hechas por el gobierno y solo gente de Singapur puede comprarlos y ya los puede rentar a extranjeros.

Esa noche Lu me llevo a comer comida japonesa, muy rica y delicada y no me dejo pagar. Al dia siguiente fui a Orchad Road donde se encuentran todas las tiendas y malls, los cuales se hacian presentes en cada cuadra! Malls grandes y con las mismas tiendas que el otro! jaja De hecho entre a un mall de 10 pisos! Hazme el favor! Pero bueno segui caminando y encontre un centro de informacion turistica y me dieron mapas y demas, ademas de un masaje en los pies, gratuito!

Camine hasta el Marina Bay por el rio, y me tome fotos con la estatua del Merlion, un ser mitologico caracteristico de esta ciudad, que es la cabeza de un leon con cuerpo de sirena. Despues recorri el CBD, el centro financiero y despues fui A comer al Food Republic, que es como una food court pero ambientado como pueblo o villa oriental y me gusto mucho (el lugar, no la comida).

Despues fui a China Town, que estuvo padre pues hay muchas tiendillas y templos. Fui a un templo budista que construyeron recientemente y estaba muy padre, limpio y con toda la lana del mundo. Contaba con un museos y biblioteca en los pisos de arriba del templo. Despues me fui a la oficina de mis amigas, que por cierto trabajan en Google. Y por si no sabes, las oficinas cuentan con todo para que estes relajado: cuarto de masajes, xuarto de juegos, ping pong, lounge con refri abierto, etc. Ademas, estando en el piso 35 tenia buenas vistas de la ciudad y el puerto. Me fui entonces a cenar con ellas al Clark Quay, que es donde estan los bares y restaurantes y la vida nocturna pues. Comimos comida tipica de esta region, Bah Ku Teh, que es como el caldo de pollo pero es con puerco y acompañado de te negro. Muy ricoou..

Al dia siguiente fui a Little India, y entre a un templo hindu, descalzo. Es impresionante la gente que habia, incienso por todos lados, ofrendas de comida a los dioses, etc. De aqui ya me fui directo al aeropuerto para volar a KL.

Mis impresiones al final del viaje a Singapur fue que es una ciudad con mucha gente de distintas culturas, ciudad de primer mundo, con sus reglas que permiten tener una ciudad limpia y ordenada y que no permiten masticar chicle y comer o fumar en muchas areas publicas. Aunque solo estuve un dia y medio creo que fue suficiente pues no tiene mucho mas que ofrecer esta cuudad (aunque no fui a Sentosa, un isla tipo disneylandia, con playas y demas, pero es mas para niños ademas dicen que todo es mucho mas caro).


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Veinticuatro horas, dos ciudades

Brisbane & Gold Coast, Australia. Al llegar a la ciudad de Brisbane me di cuenta que es una ciudad con poco reconocimiento aunque si esta muy bien desarrollada, con importantes areas publicas al aire libre. Como solo iba a estar menos de un dia, deje mi mochila en un locker en la estacion de trenes y me puse a recorrer el CBD, o downtown, y cruce el rio a traves de un puente peatonal colgante muy curioso y llegue a lo que es el Southbank. Aqui se encuentra la Galeria de Arte Moderno (algo asi como el MoMa de Australia). La entrada es libre y el edificio en si es impresionante, de talla contemporanea, diseño minimalista con mucho detalle tecnico y espacial. Disfrute recorrer los pasillos, las entradas de luz cenitales, el uso de materiales como el acero y la madera.

A un lado de este edificio se encuentra la Biblioteca Publica, un espacio enorme, de interes general y reunion social. Me puse a pensar que me gustaria un espacio asi (o una cultura asi) en Monterrey... Wifi gratis, sagrado wifi gratis!

Uno sigue recorriendo el Southbank y se encuentra con la FerrysWheel, y luego con una 'esplanade' tipo la de Cairns. Esto fue lo que mas me llamo la atencion: otra playa artificial (alberca publica) con grandes areas para tomar el sol, picnics, etc. A diferencia de Melbourne, siento que esta es una ciudad mas para familias por el tipo de actividades. Ademas se encuentra a una hora de Gold Coast, el Miami/Los Angeles/Cancun del hemisferio sur.

Estuvr en la zona que le dicen Surfer's Paradise. Aunque solo dormi una noche me di cuenta que es una gran ciudad turistica, cuenta con miles de torres de hoteles o departamentos. Hay Sea World, WarnerBros Studio, y muchos parques acuaticos. La playa es bonita con buenas olas y arena de buen color. Me toco ver un amanecer increible (yo creo que asi son todos los amaneceres). Por la noche hay mucha actividad, bares, restaurantes, street performers, luces, musica, gente, etc.

Paseo de 24 horas entre ambas ciudades, pero me marco mucho pues no esperaba ver todo lo que vi. Una vez mas: 'plan to be surprised!'


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